Einfach Raus!

This is the name of the ticket we have just discovered on the ÖBB (Austrian Railways).

This is a special ticket that is valid on all Austrian trains except the big fast inter-city trains. It is valid for between 2 - 5 people and costs 28Euro for a whole day's travel for all the people in the group.

We decided to investigate the possibilities over the weekend, starting on Saturday with a trip to Eisenstadt (the regional capital of Burgenland). Saturday was a really warm day and the town centre was uphill from the station (oh my aching shins and blistered feet) so we were a bit tuckered out by the time we arrived to saunter through the, rather deserted, town centre (anyone would think it was a bank holiday or something!).

We had a bit of lunch (Würstel with freshly grated horseradish all round) and made our way idly (we had to run at full pelt) back to the station to catch the next train to Neusiedel Am See, which we sort of missed as we got off at the wrong station. We could see the lake twinkling the distance but had just missed the train (well, we had got off it actually) into town, so we got on a different train and came back a different route into Vienna.

We arrived back in Vienna earlier than we originally expected, and decided to tootle off on another train/adventure to Mödling, an outlying small spa town, just because we could. The town centre was uphill, again, and looked really unpromising from the main road. We almost turned around and came back home but didn't, for some reason I can't remember, and ended up somewhere that was so dinky it looked like Chitty Chitty Bang Bang could have been filmed there (was it? I don't know, but if you do, then please tell me).

Then we headed home, via a Turkish-shop stop to pick up some provisions (delicious pistachio nuts,
aubergine dip and (a tin of!) humous).

Easter Sunday, and a new Einfach Raus ticket beckons, but not before finding the rather brilliant journey planner on the ÖBB website called Scotty, which allows us to plan our journey to the minute before we have actually left the house (I think Austrian public transport efficiency is second only that of Germany).

Today we're going to Melk.

Melk lies on a bend in the Danube, about 100km from Vienna. It's a pretty little town (this time downhill from the station!) which boasts the most jaw-dropping baroque "pile" (atop the hill in the town centre) that I have ever seen. It completely dominates the town.

This pile is a still functioning monastery, with a museum, and gallery, and fountains, and gardens, and church, and cherubs, and frescoes, and relics (!!!), and gold-leaf, and general pomp, and, in fact, so much visual pastel confection that at times, you may feel like you're having a sugar-rush.

Easter Monday we set forth again, this time with Payerbach-Riechenau as our destination of choice.

We were thwarted early on in the journey today however, as both of us were daydreaming and missed our first change (Ottakring). We eventually got back to Wien Meidling (our main departure station) and decided to head towards Wiener Neustadt (which is on the way to Payerbach-Riechenau) and review the situation later in the morning.

Wiener Neustadt (New City) is actually medieval, and not an overflow council estate (like Wythenshawe is to Manchester) as I had previously thought and in itself looked picturesque and probably held enough to keep us entertained for the afternoon, had it not been a Bank Holiday and had everything not been shut. So, after a cursory circuit of the old town we headed back to the station to venture forth, to our original destination.

We arrived in Payerbach-Riechenau and "siezed the day" yet again by jumping onto yet another train which was already in the station when we arrived which took us up the snow covered mountain to Semmering.

It snowed when we arrived and was really beautiful.

Snow pix to follow soon, when I have sorted them out!

Einfach Raus? Well, it gets you out of the house doesn't it?

The best in town

Last Saturday, on our last night in Chicago, our plan had initially been to go back up the Hancock Tower to say goodbye to the city over a G&T and then grab a bite to eat, after packing though, we realised that we were a bit behind, it was bitter cold outside again and swirling with snow on the still northerly wind.

Now, there is a swanky little arcade below the hotel, with boutiques (Chanel!) and up market giftee shoppees, a bar and a restaurant called the Cape Cod Room. It had come recommended and had had good write-ups in all the guidebooks we had by now accumulated and it seemed a bit silly not to investigate it, not least as it would mean we wouldn't have to get wrapped up to go out in the cold again (pathetic I know, but sometimes it's just too much effort).

I'm glad we did investigate. We had planned to pop out for a gin, then pop back, but hey, we were there, we were tired, and we were seduced by the smells, and a particularly fine G&T too. Oh, the food was delicious too, by the way.

I'd recommend the Lobster Bisque if you're ever in the vicinity and a bit peckish.

Thou shallt have a fishy

Last Thursday was, for Tim a day of conference stuff so after a perusal of the guidebooks I decided to re-trace (more or less) yesterday's steps and visit the Shedd Aquarium in the Museum Campus, then back via the Millennium Park. The weather was bright and sunny like yesterday, but rather colder and the walk was brisk to prevent me freezing solid.

I've always been slightly obsessed with these places and feel the thrill like a little boy at the sight of the big fishes, the crocs and turtles squeal (inside) and tingle with unease when you finally do spot the spiders and cockroaches after peering round their glass enclosures for ages (I didn't take piccies of the insects ~ sorry).
I spent most of the day there amidst the screaming kids and "live" coral reef dive exhibits and finished my visit with a delicious meal in the (thankfully now) quiet restaurant in the basement with an amazing view over the lake.

I didn't have the heart to have the fish!

North, South, East and West

To conclude our walk, and allow us a little time inside to thaw out we, decided to visit the observation platform at the top of the Sear's Tower. The day was a little murky but the views were still amazing!

Views to the north:
to the east:
to the south:
and to the west:
We needed a drink after that. It's a shame there wasn't a bar up there!

You're the top

After venturing out to buy a guidebook or two from Borders we partook of a little general retail therapy in Banana Republic along the way, we were recommended by the sales assistant to take the elevator up to the 96th floor of the Hancock Tower to the Signature Room for cocktails as the sun went down over the city.

We took his advice. It was astonishing!

Thank you Terry.

A nice piece of pie

I donned my new lovely warm coat for the first time on Friday when we visited the Haydn Kino (Cinema) on Mariahilferstraße to see Sweeney Todd.

I have been fascinated and slightly thrilled by this tale since I was a little boy when my dad told me the story of the Demon Barber of Fleet Street in a very matter-of-fact kind of way, probably on the way to the chip shop. I had heard good things about the film and generally like Tim Burton's work but I was slightly unnerved when I found out it was a musical.

The Haydn Kino is an English speaking cinema which allocates seats by row and number in a very teutonic way. We asked for seats near the back and got exactly that.

My reservations about the "musical"ness of the film were borne out as there some awful scenes with awful songs giving insight, at length, into the awfully troubled young hearts of the obsessed sailor and the imprisoned daughter, but on the whole, these scenes were overshadowed by the sets and some right rollicking performances. For some reason I had expected Mr Todd to shave his victims before slitting their throats, but perhaps that would have just been a bit too fetishistic for a mainstream film.

On Saturday morning I decided it was time for a shave. Well, you don't want to tempt fate do you?

A week is a long time...

It seems amazing that this week has gone so fast. Last Thursday (Feb 14th) we met up with a friend who was leading a group of modern history students and other interested academics on a mini trip to Vienna. We met up with them to eat at the Waldviertlerhof (which I mentioned earlier, and the food was excellent by the way) shortly after they arrived and tagged along at various points throughout their trip.

The weather turned on Friday and the temperature dropped by several degrees. We had a smattering of snow, but the worse thing was the wind. It certainly wasn't the kind of day I would have chosen to stand about in the town Centre.

Unfortunately, we were booked onto the Third Man tour, so this was exactly what we had to do! I Had known about this particular tour for a long time and it had almost worked its way into my folk memory. I was sure that a friend of a friend had been on it and had been taken down into the storm drains that run under Vienna to see the setting of the final scenes where Orson Welles tries to escape the clutches of the authorities. He didn't escape (sorry for the spoiler if you haven't seen it), and we didn't get to see the storm drains as the scene was apparently shot in the Shepperton Studios in London. We left early, feeling a little disappointed and later found out that the tour didn't even take in the Riesenrad (the big wheel) on the Prater which seemed a little odd as it is the most recognisable landmark in the whole film. Hey ho. Photo below is the doorway of Harry Lime's kitty (unacknowledged) accompanied first appearance in the film.

A tip! If you are ever really cold and happen to pass a street vendor selling roasted chestnuts, buy some, give some to your friends, put them in your gloves to warm your hands then eat them. It works a treat. Well done Jill for this inspired bit of improvisation!

Later that evening, we visited the Zwölf Apostelkeller in the centre of town to eat drink and make merry, helped along by a particularly boisterous performance from the resident violinist and accordianist who, when they found out the group was from Wales gave a rousing rendition of Tom Jones' "Why, why, why, Delilah?". All very jolly though secretly I was hoping for "Big Spender"!
Saturday was more sedate (though still freezing cold) as we ambled up and down the Naschmarkt and wandered through the accompanying Saturday Flohmarkt (Flea Market) eyeing the acres of assembled bric a brac, antiques, books, old cutlery, postcards, records and CDs, statues, furniture and general tat (you get the picture) and eventually ended up, via the mulled wine stall, at the Kunsthistorisches Museum to see the newly opened Arcimboldo exhibition.

You probably do know who he is even if you think you don't. He's the man who made portraits out of vegetables, fruit and flowers. They were actually portraits of the court of Rudolf the second (16th century) and very interesting too.

We saw the lovely snowy Breughels too.

Sunday found us at the top the Kahlenberg again, surveying the land with the whole group from on high and actually managing to spot the Riesenrad this time. We descended to the village at the bottom (Kahlenbergerdorf) down a stepped path through a vineyard which was cordoned off due to glaciated steps near the bottom. Naturally we only realised this when we were at the ice, at the bottom of the steps; we suffered no casualties, though it was a tad hairy descending at times.
When at the bottom we decamped to a pre-booked local Heuriger called Steinschaden for a delicious feast of local specialities (even featuring vegetarian options!) and lots and lots of wine. Note to self, I really must find out what Schwarz Wurzel are, because the Schwarz Wurzel salad was delicious. It tasted quite like asparagus but without the side effects. I'd quite like to try to grow some when I get home.

I had a brilliant time last weekend and met some really lovely people. Thank you :)

To everyone their own Gackerl Sakerl

There is a move from a government body in Vienna to make it illegal to allow your dog to foul the pavement and not clear it up. Speaking as someone who, within hours of arriving, had inadvertently stood in a small "deposit", I entirely agree that this is a reasonable request/demand.

The Austrians are a nation of dog lovers and there are apparently enough dogs in Vienna alone to produce 15 tons of, erm, droppings (as they are referred to here) every single month. Judging by the size of some of them though (the dogs, not the owners), this amount of matter could easily be achieved by a relatively small number of the more ginormous sized Hunds after an over indulgent dinner.

So far, this "clean as we go" initiative (sorry Gracie) doesn't yet have any great presence on the streets. The only presence I have seen on my travels (and photographed) so far is this charming little fella encouraging you take a "Sackerl" (small bag) for your dog's "Gackerl" (I'm not entirely sure of an exact translation for this, but I'm sure you get the idea and if you're a bit lost, the pictograms at the bottom should help you work it out). I think it's a shame that Mr Dog doesn't actually have any "Sackerl" attached to him to distribute as I expect he is supposed to have, I fear this may be wanton sabotage.

Being such a posh place, the populace of Vienna (like Nice in France) don't seem to think that such unpleasant laws/directives/initiatives apply to them. Therefore, if you do come to visit us, or this fair city, I'd encourage you to watch your step.

I haven't got a stitch to wear

We're going to the Waldviertlerhof for dinner tonight with friends. There are fish specials in January and February and it looks like it will prove to be a very enjoyable evening. I fear however that whatever I wear, I be upstaged by the waiting staff.

I think I'll wear black!

All under control...

We didn't miss Control, although it was touch and go as the Stadtbahn train was ten minutes late leaving Oberdöbling. We found the Schikaneder cinema on the Margaretenstraße quite quickly (thankfully), and in time too, though we needn't have worried as the usher arrived late too to allow us into the cinema.

The cinema was a long room painted black with a white rectangle painted on the wall for the film to be projected on. The seating was a mixture of sofas and deckchairs. It wasn't the best sound insulated place. You could hear traffic outside and people walking by talking on their mobiles (Händy) but in the great scheme of things, what does that matter? It reminded me of the art cinema I used to work at in Oxford whilst a student, the self-deprecatingly (though ultimately truthfully) named Penultimate Picture Palace.

Shikaneder's eccentric furnishings were much more comfortable though than the PPP ever offered, and you could take drinks in from the bar too! I really liked the cinema and hope we go again.

Control was a fantastic film. I really enjoyed it, even the boring bits! It was very beautifully filmed and thankfully, not dubbed! And even though I knew the ending (he dies, by the way), it still was very, very moving, and the soundtrack, quite spectacular. Thank you Mr Corbijn, Mr Curtis (Riley) et al.

We retired afterwards for a beer (or two) to the Café Savoy on the Linke Wienzeile which boasts some of the largest mirrors in Europe (apparently); which makes it a really good place to, erm... look at the other patrons.

He's missed Control again

Or hopefully not!

After missing it both times it was on at the Tyneside Cinema back home, we are planning to (finally) go to see Control, the film by Anton Corbijn about the Manchester lords of miserablism, Joy Division tonight. I hope it's not dubbed.

We're going to the Schikaneder cinema in town and I am quite excited about it!

I think I'll wear black.