Showing posts with label cafe. Show all posts
Showing posts with label cafe. Show all posts

Saturday, February 23, 2008

A week is a long time...

It seems amazing that this week has gone so fast. Last Thursday (Feb 14th) we met up with a friend who was leading a group of modern history students and other interested academics on a mini trip to Vienna. We met up with them to eat at the Waldviertlerhof (which I mentioned earlier, and the food was excellent by the way) shortly after they arrived and tagged along at various points throughout their trip.

The weather turned on Friday and the temperature dropped by several degrees. We had a smattering of snow, but the worse thing was the wind. It certainly wasn't the kind of day I would have chosen to stand about in the town Centre.

Unfortunately, we were booked onto the Third Man tour, so this was exactly what we had to do! I Had known about this particular tour for a long time and it had almost worked its way into my folk memory. I was sure that a friend of a friend had been on it and had been taken down into the storm drains that run under Vienna to see the setting of the final scenes where Orson Welles tries to escape the clutches of the authorities. He didn't escape (sorry for the spoiler if you haven't seen it), and we didn't get to see the storm drains as the scene was apparently shot in the Shepperton Studios in London. We left early, feeling a little disappointed and later found out that the tour didn't even take in the Riesenrad (the big wheel) on the Prater which seemed a little odd as it is the most recognisable landmark in the whole film. Hey ho. Photo below is the doorway of Harry Lime's kitty (unacknowledged) accompanied first appearance in the film.

A tip! If you are ever really cold and happen to pass a street vendor selling roasted chestnuts, buy some, give some to your friends, put them in your gloves to warm your hands then eat them. It works a treat. Well done Jill for this inspired bit of improvisation!

Later that evening, we visited the Zwölf Apostelkeller in the centre of town to eat drink and make merry, helped along by a particularly boisterous performance from the resident violinist and accordianist who, when they found out the group was from Wales gave a rousing rendition of Tom Jones' "Why, why, why, Delilah?". All very jolly though secretly I was hoping for "Big Spender"!
Saturday was more sedate (though still freezing cold) as we ambled up and down the Naschmarkt and wandered through the accompanying Saturday Flohmarkt (Flea Market) eyeing the acres of assembled bric a brac, antiques, books, old cutlery, postcards, records and CDs, statues, furniture and general tat (you get the picture) and eventually ended up, via the mulled wine stall, at the Kunsthistorisches Museum to see the newly opened Arcimboldo exhibition.

You probably do know who he is even if you think you don't. He's the man who made portraits out of vegetables, fruit and flowers. They were actually portraits of the court of Rudolf the second (16th century) and very interesting too.

We saw the lovely snowy Breughels too.

Sunday found us at the top the Kahlenberg again, surveying the land with the whole group from on high and actually managing to spot the Riesenrad this time. We descended to the village at the bottom (Kahlenbergerdorf) down a stepped path through a vineyard which was cordoned off due to glaciated steps near the bottom. Naturally we only realised this when we were at the ice, at the bottom of the steps; we suffered no casualties, though it was a tad hairy descending at times.
When at the bottom we decamped to a pre-booked local Heuriger called Steinschaden for a delicious feast of local specialities (even featuring vegetarian options!) and lots and lots of wine. Note to self, I really must find out what Schwarz Wurzel are, because the Schwarz Wurzel salad was delicious. It tasted quite like asparagus but without the side effects. I'd quite like to try to grow some when I get home.

I had a brilliant time last weekend and met some really lovely people. Thank you :)

Monday, February 11, 2008

That's grotesque

Spent most of the day Saturday afternoon in the Museum of Applied Arts (MAK - Museum für Angewandte Kunst) on the Ringstraße. I suppose an equivalent in the UK would be the V&A in London but on a smaller scale. We wandered through rooms of baroque pomp and mirrors, exquisite lace and glass from the 16th century and rooms of chairs from from one of the first ever mail order catalogues in Europe (date), and past full size sketches by Klimt of the famous wall frieze in the Palais Stoclet in Belgium.

The main reason for my wanting to go to the MAK, was an exhibition of ornamental prints I had noticed in one of the listings sites. These prints were taken from bookplates, illustrations, pattern books, architectural drawings and other ornate designs (for jugs etc) and are all grotesque. By that I don't mean they are horrible. "Grotesque" refers to a style of decoration that is wild and fanciful and features fantastical mythological creatures with swirls and arabesques. It originally became fashionable following the discovery of Emperor Nero's villa (Domus Aurea) in Rome in the early 1500's. The villa was covered in this kind of fanciful decoration.

This might sound really dull, but this kind of stuff has fascinated me since I was a little boy, though I can't remember where I would have first seen it, maybe in the Manchester Museum? I don't know.

This was a lovely exhibition and one where. Some of the exhibits were so detailed and so small (Christmas postage stamp size) that there were powerful magnifying glasses available so you could see them properly without going crosseyed. Thank you Mr/Ms MAK for that.

We retired across the road to the Café Pruckerl and although the air inside was thick with smoke and it took an age to get served, we persevered and I eventually had a fantastic potato goulash, topped with a Debreziner (a spicy hot-dog sausage from Debrecen in Hungary).

What more could a hungry boy wish for?

Friday, February 1, 2008

More art to shake a stick at...

It was cold today. Only noticed when we left the house this afternoon tovisit the Leopold Museum in the Museum Quartier. I think it shows how well insulated buildings are on the continent compared to back home.

When we arrived in Vienna I noticed an exhibition called
Zwischen den Kriegen (Between the Wars). Unfortunately it finished the day we arrived. This morning however, Tim noticed that the exhibition run had been extended, so we decided to go along.

The exhibition chronicled the artistic endeavours of Austrian artists (not necessarily in Austria) between 1918 and 1939. The gallery is an amazing space, very understated with large well lit rooms and a huge cavernous central atrium.

The exhibition was quite interesting though completely depoliticised. Odd that.

The ground floor (and part of the basement) house the largest collection of work by Egon Schiele in the world (allegedly). It was suitably impressive. I'll take you to see it when you come to stay.

We went for a stroll around the area as the gallery closed before retiring to Das Möbel, a bar/café at the bottom of Burggasse for a bier.

Thursday, January 31, 2008

Things we bought to relieve our need and other needs which have arisen

mugs (from the Museum Quartier shop) featuring a red duck (pictured) and a red rabbit (not pictured). I didn't get the red poodle design due to my allergy to dogs and the stag beetle was a bit scary. a minimal salt and pepper potand maximal, baroque eggcups (complete with lion heads on either side) which seem somehow fitting for Austria though I'm at a loss as to why!
we got some wine glasses too, which, ironically, probably hold as much as the big beakers but look a lot nicer!

Other identified needs:
  • a colander
  • a salad bowl
  • a vegetable chopping knife