No post today!

Sorting stuff for the return trip to the UK tomorrow and deciding what to leave for our return in June. We shipped two crates (makes them sound much bigger than they actually are, they were more like big shoe boxes!) of books back to the England on Saturday for a whopping (? was it? I can't tell!) 40 Euro.

Then we have to clean the flat. The dust never sleeps!

Therefore, no proper post today, I shall endeavour however, to update (along with the promised snow photos) soon after we get home.

Einfach Raus!

This is the name of the ticket we have just discovered on the ÖBB (Austrian Railways).

This is a special ticket that is valid on all Austrian trains except the big fast inter-city trains. It is valid for between 2 - 5 people and costs 28Euro for a whole day's travel for all the people in the group.

We decided to investigate the possibilities over the weekend, starting on Saturday with a trip to Eisenstadt (the regional capital of Burgenland). Saturday was a really warm day and the town centre was uphill from the station (oh my aching shins and blistered feet) so we were a bit tuckered out by the time we arrived to saunter through the, rather deserted, town centre (anyone would think it was a bank holiday or something!).

We had a bit of lunch (Würstel with freshly grated horseradish all round) and made our way idly (we had to run at full pelt) back to the station to catch the next train to Neusiedel Am See, which we sort of missed as we got off at the wrong station. We could see the lake twinkling the distance but had just missed the train (well, we had got off it actually) into town, so we got on a different train and came back a different route into Vienna.

We arrived back in Vienna earlier than we originally expected, and decided to tootle off on another train/adventure to Mödling, an outlying small spa town, just because we could. The town centre was uphill, again, and looked really unpromising from the main road. We almost turned around and came back home but didn't, for some reason I can't remember, and ended up somewhere that was so dinky it looked like Chitty Chitty Bang Bang could have been filmed there (was it? I don't know, but if you do, then please tell me).

Then we headed home, via a Turkish-shop stop to pick up some provisions (delicious pistachio nuts,
aubergine dip and (a tin of!) humous).

Easter Sunday, and a new Einfach Raus ticket beckons, but not before finding the rather brilliant journey planner on the ÖBB website called Scotty, which allows us to plan our journey to the minute before we have actually left the house (I think Austrian public transport efficiency is second only that of Germany).

Today we're going to Melk.

Melk lies on a bend in the Danube, about 100km from Vienna. It's a pretty little town (this time downhill from the station!) which boasts the most jaw-dropping baroque "pile" (atop the hill in the town centre) that I have ever seen. It completely dominates the town.

This pile is a still functioning monastery, with a museum, and gallery, and fountains, and gardens, and church, and cherubs, and frescoes, and relics (!!!), and gold-leaf, and general pomp, and, in fact, so much visual pastel confection that at times, you may feel like you're having a sugar-rush.

Easter Monday we set forth again, this time with Payerbach-Riechenau as our destination of choice.

We were thwarted early on in the journey today however, as both of us were daydreaming and missed our first change (Ottakring). We eventually got back to Wien Meidling (our main departure station) and decided to head towards Wiener Neustadt (which is on the way to Payerbach-Riechenau) and review the situation later in the morning.

Wiener Neustadt (New City) is actually medieval, and not an overflow council estate (like Wythenshawe is to Manchester) as I had previously thought and in itself looked picturesque and probably held enough to keep us entertained for the afternoon, had it not been a Bank Holiday and had everything not been shut. So, after a cursory circuit of the old town we headed back to the station to venture forth, to our original destination.

We arrived in Payerbach-Riechenau and "siezed the day" yet again by jumping onto yet another train which was already in the station when we arrived which took us up the snow covered mountain to Semmering.

It snowed when we arrived and was really beautiful.

Snow pix to follow soon, when I have sorted them out!

Einfach Raus? Well, it gets you out of the house doesn't it?

The good, the bad and the ugly

Tasteful bits courtesy of Antonia and Tim. Thank you, yum!

To market to market

On Friday we went to an Easter Market on Freyung (one of the large squares). There were, amongst other things, lots and lots and lots and lots of eggs: painted eggs, dipped eggs, marbled eggs, sprayed eggs, patterned eggs, plain eggs, dark eggs, pale eggs.
Here's some of the "other things" there were too.I turned a corner between the Easter cake and the Easter biscuit stall, and happened upon this bloke. I think he must be a bit lost...

one two three. one two three.. one two three...

No, I'm not going to astound you with my dancing skills. I merely thought I'd share this with you.

Now I think this is an interesting mix of old and new culture here. The sign (above) is directly in front of the Strauss Monument (details below) in the Stadtpark. So after you have regarded the statue respectfully from a distance, or, as in my case, clambered about all over it, you are informed in a bit of a "gotcha" kind of way, that you have been projected across the globe courtesy of the Internet and the City of Vienna website. I think it might have been a good idea to have put the weblink on the placard, but hey, no one likes a know it all!
It's also a bit of a devious way of reminding you that you're being watched, if not by the disapproving Viennese themselves (I didn't trample anything, what is your problem?), then by all the world who are glued to the webcam on the Stadt Wien homepage collectively tut tutting at the likes of me and my disrespectful behaviour!

I suppose I should put the link in now shouldn't I?

Oh, by the way...

Have i mentioned that I inadvertently had all my hair cut off?

After we put Bridget on the CAT express train for the airport at the Landstrasse station on Saturday, we decided to have a look around the area around the station.

The weather was glorious and as Tim used to live around that area when he was a student we thought it would be interesting to see what, if anything had changed.

Now, we have been in Vienna for six weeks (counting the one week we were actually in America) and time and hair growth wait for no man, and by this time our barnets were getting a bit out of hand. Before we went away at the start of March we had been casting around trying to find somewhere to get a haircut, but to no avail. While we were in Chicago, we kept our eyes (sort of) peeled for a suitable hair cutting establishment, and again, our (minor) efforts came to naught.

As we were ambling along the Ungargasse back to the Ringstrasse to catch the train to the market, we happened upon Hair Factory, a place that looked funky enough to warrant further investigation without looking too forbidding and was also open (on Saturday afternoon, that can be a task in itself).

We did investigate further and found that we didn't need an appointment either, so sat down and waited to be shawn.

I say inadvertently, as I kind of explained to the young woman with the scissors in my faltering German how long it had been since I had had a haircut, that I wanted it clippered at the back and explained that when long, my hair goes curly and that I didn't really like curly hair. Now she took this last statement rather more literally than I had intended and my hair on the top got shorter and shorter and shorter!

Both cuts are excellent by the way in case you were wondering, and I think we would go back if necessary. It just shocks me each time i look in the mirror!

I'm sure it'll grow on me though(groan)!

Repetitive strain

I remember, years ago, when doing some work for the Tyne and Wear Museum Services that the technicians would listen to GNR and would often comment as the same song came on time after time after time, that GNR must actually stand for "Got No Records"*!

This "limited playlist" approach to brainwashing appears to have been adopted by all the radio stations here. "We play what you want" is the slogan of one of the stations. Well, if you would like to introduce me to this "you" who you are dedicating your airtime to, I might like to give them a record token for their birthday to broaden their musical spectrum a tad, in whatever direction, I don't really mind.

I seem to have ceased to battle with Austrian airwaves. No longer do I stop mid-keystroke to spit and rail at the radio and the (on the whole) dreadful pap/dad-rock/power-ballads/novelty-songs it subjects me to. I calmly rise from my seat and turn it off, and make another cup of chamomile tea.

It has been pointed out to me that my "songs that saved your life" and "tune too far" posts have reflected a particularly narrow musical time frame. While I accept that this is partly true, the tunes that have initiated this new (and some may think harsh) response to personal entertainment have almost exclusively been "new songs".

So far songs that have made me turn off the radio have included:

• James Blunt - Same Mistake
• Leona Lewis - Bleeding Love
• Joan Osborne - What if God was one of us
  

Sometimes the noise of the roadworks is preferable to such bland yelping.

*GNR stands for Great North Radio

Can you keep your noise down please?

There are some roadworks just up the road from us.

Now you all (in the UK anyway) know how irritating roadworks can be when in close proximity to where you live, particularly the early morning starts, with diggers and pneumatic drills... Well, here roadworkers seem to work to a very different timetable!

There don't seem to be any early starts, and during the day the only noticeable activity seems to be during the lunchtime break when all the local businesses (with the exception of the supermarkets) close for an hour, or two, or a bit longer.

They really get into the swing of things however after about 9pm... Sometimes carrying on until after 12.30am!!!

I don't know what the Jesmond Residents Association would have to say about that!

How perceptive...

I stumbled across this the other day while walking around the Gurtel (ring road I suppose).

Something tells me that Club Dracula might be a goth club. What do you think?

First fruits

I noticed this morning whilst reading the Bezirk's Magazin (a locale mag for locale people) that the "first fruits" of this years local harvest are already in. They are being promoted by the local media and local supermarkets in a way I can't imagine happening in the UK.

These "first fruits" aren't fruits at all but are actually root vegetables; radishes to be precise.

Their health virtues are extolled (a key part of your "5 a day") alongside their green credentials (being locally grown they have traveled only a short distance and therefore only have a small carbon footprint etc etc).

I think there is something quite comforting that something as unassuming as the humble radish can enjoy such adulation.

A change is as good as a rest

The day after our return from Chicago, the lovely Bridget came to stay.

It felt odd when we were in America and getting ready to "come home", that the home we would be coming back to was Vienna rather than the UK, and I don't think either of us was really looking forward to it. Having a visitor to stay however does make you focus on "nice" and "interesting" things to do rather than the mundane or irritating. We had a very jolly few days in the end.

B hasn't been to Vienna since the late '70s, so there were a lot of "architectural walks" to keep us busy and re-familiarise her (and us) with the delights of the city, including several stops along the way for a drink and something to eat.
The weather wasn't great. It was cold and windy most of the time, and we even had a flurry of snow at one point (on Thursday I think). The 14 degrees celcius promised for Friday didn't materialise much to our disappointment (until Saturday) and so planned trip up to the Kahlenberg to survey the city and its environs took place in pouring rain and low cloud. On arriving we took a very cursory glance at the the gloomy city wrapped in mist below, and almost immediately scurried back to the bus before it left and went into town for another drink and something else to eat.

Show me the way to go home

OK, so here's the dilemma. We arrive in Detroit after an hour's delay at O'Hare Airport with the imminent departure of the connecting flight to Amsterdam. We need to get off the plane as quickly as possible. Naturally, in this situation, we are in the two rear seats on a particularly dismal claustrophobic NWA short hop flight. As the aircraft lands, we, unusually I might add, spring to our feet collect our bags and wait for to disembark.

There is a passenger standing in the aisle about four people in front of us who doesn't move forward. It takes us a while to realise, that he is actually letting EVERYONE who is in a seat in front of him off the plane before budging an inch! Now our dilemma is, that although we have an imminently closing gate we are also English and therefore not likely to shout "Excuse me my good man! we have a connecting flight to catch, could we kindly get past?".

We do manage a few "harumphing" noises though and after finally exiting the plane proceed on a heart bursting sprint to the connection gate with fellow passengers leaping out of our way. The gate however is already closed, our seats re-allocated, the plane is gone.

Just for the record, on NWA flights, you have to be on board 30 mins before departure, so we would have missed it anyway.

The best in town

Last Saturday, on our last night in Chicago, our plan had initially been to go back up the Hancock Tower to say goodbye to the city over a G&T and then grab a bite to eat, after packing though, we realised that we were a bit behind, it was bitter cold outside again and swirling with snow on the still northerly wind.

Now, there is a swanky little arcade below the hotel, with boutiques (Chanel!) and up market giftee shoppees, a bar and a restaurant called the Cape Cod Room. It had come recommended and had had good write-ups in all the guidebooks we had by now accumulated and it seemed a bit silly not to investigate it, not least as it would mean we wouldn't have to get wrapped up to go out in the cold again (pathetic I know, but sometimes it's just too much effort).

I'm glad we did investigate. We had planned to pop out for a gin, then pop back, but hey, we were there, we were tired, and we were seduced by the smells, and a particularly fine G&T too. Oh, the food was delicious too, by the way.

I'd recommend the Lobster Bisque if you're ever in the vicinity and a bit peckish.

The frozen lake

The change in the weather has made the almost thawed lake freeze again. The view from the room looks over the beach area and during our stay, the crashing waves have been really dramatic. As things started to get colder, the edges on the sand began to freeze and the waves crashing on the frozen sand froze and the ice got bigger and bigger and bigger. I ventured out to brave the cold and ice to take some photos...

It didn't stop the joggers though!

Less is more

It might be vaguely sacrilegious to say, but I/we really didn't enjoy the deep dish pizza we had for lunch at all, sorry.

Didn't enjoy the dry, vaguely biscuity, yellow (corn?) dough that made up the base.

Didn't enjoy the sloppy sloppy topping.

Didn't enjoy the fact that we had to wait 45 minutes for the the strange abomination to cook.

I did enjoy the lemonade though, and thank goodness for garlic sticks with dip (almost a meal in themself!).

The wind will change...

We've all heard the saying/idle threat directed at young (and not so young) 'uns whilst pulling a face, "the wind will change and you'll stay like that". Well, today (last Friday) it did.

Since we arrived, whatever wind has been blowing, has been blowing from the west. Today it decided to come in from the north, bringing with it clouds that made the view across the lake this morning look more like Morecambe bay than lake Michigan.
The main thrust of our plan today was to visit the Art Institute of Chicago. Before setting off, we had flirted with the idea of taking public transport. I had found out that day passes only cost $5, though, to be honest, after trekking around yesterday, monetary reasons weren't the only reason to take the bus. My feet were still killing me, and public transport seemed like a sensible option.

We started off with very good intentions... We left the hotel before 9am and went for breakfast at the Water Tower Place (Mall) just down Michigan from the hotel. During breakfast I was flicking through the floor plan leaflet we had been given earlier in the week and realised that on Friday, the gallery didn't actually open until 10.30am!

As in London, most of the high street shops don't open until 10am the malls are open but the shops aren't), so we didn't even have the option of an hour's intensive shopping before jumping on the bus to whisk us to Millennium Park for a bit o' culture.

So, we lingered over breakfast, and when we set off, we decided to walk down to the institute, dodging into open malls as (below) freezing temperatures necessitated and arrived joining the end of the queue just as the doors were opened.

Thou shallt have a fishy

Last Thursday was, for Tim a day of conference stuff so after a perusal of the guidebooks I decided to re-trace (more or less) yesterday's steps and visit the Shedd Aquarium in the Museum Campus, then back via the Millennium Park. The weather was bright and sunny like yesterday, but rather colder and the walk was brisk to prevent me freezing solid.

I've always been slightly obsessed with these places and feel the thrill like a little boy at the sight of the big fishes, the crocs and turtles squeal (inside) and tingle with unease when you finally do spot the spiders and cockroaches after peering round their glass enclosures for ages (I didn't take piccies of the insects ~ sorry).
I spent most of the day there amidst the screaming kids and "live" coral reef dive exhibits and finished my visit with a delicious meal in the (thankfully now) quiet restaurant in the basement with an amazing view over the lake.

I didn't have the heart to have the fish!

North, South, East and West

To conclude our walk, and allow us a little time inside to thaw out we, decided to visit the observation platform at the top of the Sear's Tower. The day was a little murky but the views were still amazing!

Views to the north:
to the east:
to the south:
and to the west:
We needed a drink after that. It's a shame there wasn't a bar up there!

A walk in the park

On Tuesday we went for a walk...

We walked down Michigan to the river,
Through Millennium Park,
past the Anish Kapor sculpture,
down to the lake,
along to the Museum Campus,
back into town to a fantastic acrhitecture/design bookshop called Prairie Avenue Books,
past the elevated train tracks,
through the square which houses the Mies van der Rohe federal buildings and a huge Calder sculpture
and along to the Rookery (I stood on the stairs and got told off by the security guard)
How our feet ached!